Do not talk to Serge Lutens perfume "niche": he abhorred the word. "A marketing invention that still love to put people in boxes that have can
then reproduce indefinitely," he said, preferring to talk to him about "quality". Still with its first boutique Les Salons du Palais Royal, Galerie de Valois opened in 1992, the artistic director of Shiseido has indeed inspired a new generation of perfumers. The Byredo, Kilian, Le Labo ... And other almost unknown in France, Escentric Molecules, Xerjoff, Casa Morati ...
Independent these "start-up" stray practices of major brands (Dior, Chanel ...) to muse, big advertising budgets and systematic use of marketing tests. She flourish to Moscow just opened, after the one in Paris, the second Serge Lutens shop, black and gold casket behind the Bolshoi.
Curiosity cabinet style
The brand was already present in Russia in 200 point of sales, big luxury brands, Tsum and Gum and in Ile de Beauté, a partner distributor Sephora. But as St. Petersburg, the Russian capital offers fertile ground for perfumeries "old" genuine curiosity cabinets adapted to the sale of precious and rare bottles. Those of the new line "Golden Section" Serge Lutens, for example, between 450 and 600 euros.
"The big brands market their perfumes like Coca Cola," notes Vladimir Davidi, partner and owner of Molecule Lutens, a network of 11 shops dedicated to this high perfumery .. Specialist of the Russian market, the French Corinne Jacques, Vice President Rive Gauche, a distributor of perfumes and cosmetics, adds "like the Oriental way, the Russian clientele loves expensive and exclusive products. Having been fans of novelties, it is sophisticated and now rushes in niche brands. Even more than in France "
Parade to the market slowdown
It also prevents that here the ultra luxury segment offers much parry came to the shortness of perfumery. "For five years the market declined in volume. For the first time in 2014, he even also slightly declined in value in Europe is progressing in the United States and in emerging markets. Only the very upscale grows with growth of 20% to 30%, "observes Hassan Saad president of the subsidiary of Shiseido, Serge Lutens, Les Salons du Palais Royal.
The creator was fortunate to be supported by the Japanese giant of beauty that has allowed it to launch. In total some 70 fragrances have emerged largely inspired by the Oriental imagination. Ambre Sultan, A Night, Her Majesty the Rose ... The names evoke the richness of the bazaars and souks of scents, in perfect contrast to the classical geometry of the vials and their austere packaging (black and gray) included for the line makeup.
Marketed in 35 countries and 2,000 points of sale on the net, Serge Lutens remains a featherweight with retail sales of less than € 40 million. But Shiseido wants to move to the next level. Until then licensee, the group negotiates the purchase of the brand to its creator 73 years old. "In return, we will invest more in its international expansion," said Hassan Saad who gave until the end of the year to complete the operation.
Accessories, bags and scarves
Desiring to "not remain dependent" of major distributors, the manager wants to invest thirty million in the shop opening in major capitals. The program also the arrival of accessories, bags and scarves signed Lutens. After Moscow (which bear well two shops), St. Petersburg, New York, where the brand is already distributed at Barney's, is a priority. In Paris, the Royal Palace is being expanded, and Hassan Saad would open two more places, and on the left bank near the Place Vendôme.
As for the future role of the creator? "We need that remains as long as he wants," said the leader adding that he also wants to see "engage in the formation of the relief team."
